November 30, 2006
Superstars or Average Joes? A Replication-Based Performance Evaluation Of 1917 Individual Hedge Funds
The Budgeter’s Wallet
Budgeting is a State of Mind — how to start a financial budget
When most people think about budgets, they think – accounting and BORING.— Sure, it makes sense to budget but I have more important things to do than play with a bunch of numbers!It is true that some budgets are quite complicated and boring. In my opinion, simple budgets are better. Complicated budgets are hard to comply with and frequently have adverse consequences. Want an example of budgeting gone wrong? Look no further than the Budget for the U.S. Government. http://www.gpoaccess.gov/usbudget/
The best budget is one the makes you aware of what you are earning and spending. The general goal is to earn more than we spend so that we are left with money to save and invest. You can start your budgeting process by following four simple steps.
- Track – The first step in effective budgeting is keeping track of your earnings and expenditures on a monthly basis. There are a variety of ways to do this. You can set up a simple paper or computer spreadsheet register or use a software program like Quicken or Microsoft Money These two programs are very inexpensive and easy to use. They usually come preloaded on many personal computers so you may have a trial version available right now. Paying for most of your purchases on a debit card or credit card saves you the trouble of tracking those expenditures – just make sure you don’t charge more than you can pay off each month. Even if you are not ready to put pen to paper, I suggest you start to mentally track these items.
- Evaluate – At the beginning of a month, compare your prior month actuals to what you estimated (of course you can’t do that in the first month). If there are differences think about why/how they arose? Was it a bad budget? Was there an unforeseen cost? Did you temporarily lose your mind? In the evaluation process you might also be surprised by the “unaccountable” funds. Was there a hole in your pocket? Probably not. What was more likely is that you got cash from an ATM and spent it like a drunken sailor. While comparing your actual to budgeted amounts may be a somewhat embarrassing process, remember, this can be done privately. This doesn’t need to be shared with others. The important thing is that you understand why the actuals were different than the budget.
- Estimate – Use the information from the evaluation process to establish a budget for the next month. . It is important that the budgets reflect reality. Don’t budget only $25 for entertainment when you plan on going out every weekend. We only fool ourselves when we make up an unrealistic budget (why am I thinking about the Government again?)
- Act – Use the estimate to focus your actions for the next month. Correct any behaviors that caused you to go off budget in previous months. For instance, if you found that any cash you had on hand just burned a whole in your pocket, try to avoid ATM withdrawals. Also, determine whether you want to make any modifications to your behavior (e.g., earn more or spend less). Some modifications (such as making more money) might require months, even years, to fully modify. Just make sure that you are taking the necessary first steps. Most importantly don’t continue bad behavior. If you are spending more that you earn, you need to fix that ASAP.
Budgeting is a continual process. One where practice makes perfect. It is understandable that you will make mistakes at the beginning. Just think about taking small steps forward. When I started budgeting all I did was simply make sure that I never spent more in a month than I earned. If I overspent in any one month, I cut back in the next month until I was back in balance. I kept track mostly by monitoring my bank balance -- there were no fancy software programs at that time!
Your budget will become more sophisticated over time. And, once you see how budgeting can improve your financial position, you will become more motivated to give it more thought. For instance, in my twenties, I began automatic investing as part of my budget. Once I saw how the funds accumulated, I was motivated to save more and spend less
Trying to establish a budget that is too complicated or too severe at the beginning will just turn you off from the process. Nobody was going to tell me not to spend my hard-earned money when I first graduated from college! In later posts, I will get into more of the mechanical process for setting up a budget (you can also go to the GE money budgeting website shown as the budgeting link below). For now, I just want to leave your with the thought, “I think, therefore I budget.”
3rd Quarter 401k Back in the Positive
For the 2nd quarter 2006, I wrote that my 401k performance was negative. In the 3rd quarter 2006, I did better but not by much. At least it’s in the positive range. My personal rate of return for the period ending September 30, 2006 was: 3.54%.
Hope you’re doing better than that.
Lately I’ve been thinking of reducing my contributions to 401k to the minimum contribution dollar amount an employee needs to contribute to get the maximum employer match in order to pay off some home equity line of credit, which is at approx 8% or so interest rate. I’ve already maxed out the 401k in the past few years so I’m thinking that I can take a break until my higher interest line of credit is paid off. Is this a smart idea?
Looking for a quick/effective way to analyze rental properties? Check this out!
November 29, 2006
If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em
Alpha “Makes the (Blog) Rounds”
Baby Boomer Bust is BULL
“Boomer Bust?” I Don’t Think So!
I couldn't agree more and can't wait to read his full argument!
July 14, 2006:
I want to post about a subject that frequently appears in discussions online in recent years (especially over the past several months). It's about authors and their sheep followers that continue to predict these great depressions and crashes. I am not saying that it can't happen but their readers sure make them rich by reading most of their negative crap. What happened to the predictions from the books in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s? Read the book titles from the 1970’s and 1980’s and then read the book titles from today (listed below). Are you seeing a pattern? I didn’t go back to the 50’s or 60’s but I could find similar titles and then many more in the 1930’s. My point is: don’t believe everything you read and stop panicking by reading books from theorists (talkers, not doers). I must give credit to many of the books listed by Martin Schwartz and his book Pit Bull. I enjoyed reading it over my last vacation as it was very funny and educational (not a “how to” book).Theorists make money selling books that sell fear while investors and entrepreneurs make money by following their ideas with money and hedging against a possible crisis. I learn from history and history shows us that these “crisis” books will always sell during tough times. Readers eat up this garbage because most people are trapped in the rat race working their asses off just trying to stay afloat. Their attitudes are typically piss-poor and they love to read about huge negative events (especially a crash that may hurt others).
Also notice how the same authors try to write books when the market starts to go back up again. For example, Howard J Ruff was writing about the crisis in 1979 through 1982 but then started to write about how to invest as a serious investor in 1987. Guess what: he was on the wrong end of the crisis in 1982 (the tail end) and the wrong end of the boom in 1987 (crash later that year). These “fools” are always late to the party and sell millions of books to the “average” person that engrosses themselves in fear!
These people, both now and then are not very accurate, they sell garbage in my opinion and I ignore it at all costs! I just hope many of you can do the same and make decisions based on what “YOU” see and not based on book sellers! Invest for now, ignore the garbage but be prepared for worst case scenarios by taking necessary steps but don’t radically change your life based upon the writings of a few authors that probably don’t invest themselves.
Books from the Past:
Crisis Investing: Opportunities and Profits in the Coming Great Depression by Douglas Casey (Hardcover - Jul 1980)
Crisis Investing for the Rest of the 90's by Douglas Casey (Hardcover - Oct 1993) - WOW was this wrong in 1993!
What the smart money is betting on in 1985: By Doug Casey by Douglas R Casey (Unknown Binding - Jan 1, 1985)
The Coming Currency Collapse and What You Can Do About It by Jerome F. Smith (Hardcover - Sep 1980)
Profits from silver by Jerome F Smith (Unknown Binding - 1983)
How you can profit from the coming devaluation by Harry Browne (Unknown Binding - 1970)
You can profit from a monetary crisis by Harry Browne (Unknown Binding - Jan 1, 1975)
How to Prosper During the Coming Bad Years - A Crash Course on Personal and Financial Survival by Howard J. Ruff (Mass Market Paperback - 1979)
How to Prosper in the Coming Bad Years by Howard J. Ruff (Mass Market Paperback - Jul 1981)
Making money: Winning the battle for middle-class financial success by Howard J Ruff (Paperback - 1986)
Howard Ruff's crash course for the serious investor by Howard J Ruff (Unknown Binding - Jan 1, 1987)
How to Prosper During the Coming Bad Years by Howard J. Ruff (Paperback - April 1984)
Books from Today:
The Coming Collapse of the Dollar and How to Profit from It : Make a Fortune by Investing in Gold and Other Hard Assets by James Turk and John Rubino (Hardcover - Dec 28, 2004)
The Coming Economic Collapse : How You Can Thrive When Oil Costs $200 a Barrel by Stephen Leeb and Glen Strathy (Hardcover - Feb 21, 2006)
Defying the Market: Profiting in the Turbulent Post-Technology Market Boom by Stephen Leeb and Donna Leeb (Hardcover - Jun 3, 1999)
Empire of Debt : The Rise of an Epic Financial Crisis (Hardcover) by William Bonner, Addison Wiggin (November 11, 2005)
The Great Bust Ahead: The Greatest Depression in American and UK History is Just Several Short Years Away. This is your Concise Reference Guide to Understanding Why and How Best to Survive It (Paperback) by Daniel A. Arnold (November 25, 2002)
Image courtesy of http://mirrorimageorigin.collegepublisher.com/media/paper144/stills/x5jf138r.jpg
Piranha
New credit cards arrive
We are only using these cards to take advantage of the sign-up promotions – both offer a no-fee 0% balance transfer and 10,000 bonus ThankYou Points.
Our first order of business is to make a small initial purchase with each of these cards to begin the redemption process of the bonus points. We’ll then convert the points to a $200 check payable to our student loan provider which we will use toward the principal balance of the remaining student loan debt.
The second step will be the paying down of the second mortgage using one of the no-fee 0% balance transfer offers at the end of the year when we plan to have the balance down under $10,000.
As I feared, it seems all but certain that we will not be able to reallocate the $23,200 we have in available credit on our old Citi Dividend to the Citi Professional because the Dividend is a personal credit card and the Professional is a business credit card.
However, it appears that we might be able to transfer the available credit to the Diamond Preferred Rewards card. If that is the case then we’d probably want to shift $18,500 over to the new card which would then give us a credit limit of $25,000. If we are able to do so then we’ll probably go ahead and request a check large enough to cover our second mortgage payoff plus the amount necessary to max out our Roth IRA contributions for next year. As some might remember, we toyed around with this idea last year, but ultimately decided against it.
A Hard Way to Make an Easy Living –making money playing poker
If you are reading this blog you are probably interested in getting rich. We all want to find the easiest and quickest way to get there. These days there is all this talk about how you can make a career out of playing poker. I googled “poker” and “career” and got 1,970,000 hits. Sounds an awful lot like the day-trading craze back in the dot-com era.Yes, some people do make money playing poker. Just like some guys make money playing football or basketball. Most of us realize that mastering some athletic skill takes hard work effort and a certain innate ability. We give up our dreams of going “pro” at a very young age. If you are thinking that you can make money playing poker you need to recognize that, like professional athletes, very few people have what it takes to consistently win at poker.
Trying to make money at poker sounds too much like work to me. If you don’t think I know what I am talking about how about taking the advice of a successful poker player, Barry Greenstein? Here are some of the comments found on his web page http://www.barrygreenstein.com/
What advice do you normally give to someone starting on a poker career?
Normally, I advise people to put their energy into something more productive. I explain that I have played cards since I was a young child. I am a mathematician. I am well versed in psychology. I am very easy going, yet very competitive. In short, I believe I have the essential qualities to be a good poker player. But even with that, it has not always been easy.
Maybe it's the TV and participating stars, I don't know, but around here, poker seems to have captured a whole new generation in a big way. Junior high and high school kids are having big games routinely and it's far more widespread than I ever remember. Beyond TV, the popularity of the game has led to a lot of other forms of media attention, and now your book, which has all this potential for mass-market appeal that just wasn't there even five years ago. Any thoughts, any qualms, about how this came to be?
Televised poker is similar to reality TV, but poker players are really competing for a million dollars and are not acting. When people watch professional sports they may project themselves as being able to “play with the pros,” but they know it is a fantasy. Viewers of poker can think along with the players and really feel that if they had the opportunity, they might be one of the players at the final table. Many of the viewers actually play poker with family or friends at least a few times a year.
I am uncomfortable when teenagers ask me for poker advice, even though I played a lot of poker when I was in my teens. I have told my teenage son Nathaniel and my teenage nephew Michael that I will not teach them to play poker until they have completed their educations and have accomplished something productive.
Take it from one who has been there, a poker career is best considered after establishing yourself in some other profession.
What you are not going to find in all those articles about making a career out of poker is the dangerous downside. Google “poker” and “addiction”and you get 1,340,000 – almost as many as for poker careers. Very few people get addicted to playing football but the sad fact is that many get addicted to poker and other forms of gambling. There is a lot ofeducational materials out there about the dangers of drug, alcohol andtobacco. Gambling addictions are just as bad if not worse. My advice is to stay away from competitive poker to avoid any potential for addiction. Compulsive gambling is a sure way to ensure that you will NOT become financially independent!
LaunchPoker has a good article on poker addiction. If you are not yet convinced about the wisdom of my words, I suggest you read it. http://www.launchpoker.com/psychology/-poker-addiction-/ The article has the 20 questions taken from the official site of Gamblers Anonymous that ANY poker player should ask themselves at least once a year. These questions are provided to help the individual decide if he or she is a compulsive gambler and wants to stop gambling. If you answer “yes” to more than 7 of them – you have serious problems. And remember – its not a joke!
- Did you ever lose time from work or school due to gambling?
- Has gambling ever made your home life unhappy?
- Did gambling affect your reputation?
- Have you ever felt remorse after gambling?
- Did you ever gamble to get money with which to pay debts or otherwise solve
financial difficulties? - Did gambling cause a decrease in your ambition or efficiency?
- After losing did you feel you must return as soon as possible and win back your
losses? - After a win did you have a strong urge to return and win more?
- Did you often gamble until your last dollar was gone?
- Did you ever borrow to finance your gambling?
- Have you ever sold anything to finance gambling?
- Were you reluctant to use "gambling money" for normal expenditures?
- Did gambling make you careless of the welfare of yourself or your family?
- Did you ever gamble longer than you had planned?
- Have you ever gambled to escape worry or trouble?
- Have you ever committed, or considered committing, an illegal act to finance gambling?
- Did gambling cause you to have difficulty in sleeping?
- Do arguments, disappointments or frustrations create within you an urge to gamble?
- Did you ever have an urge to celebrate any good fortune by a few hours of gambling?
- Have you ever considered self destruction or suicide as a result of your gambling?
If you play poker please ask yourself these questions. If you answer yes on 7 or more please seek help by talking with someone you trust and/or contacting Gamblers Anonymous or some other gambling addiction treatment organization. Gambling is NOT the way to financial independence!
Getting Excited About My Raise!
I decided that for the new year, first, I'm going to increase my retirement contribution to remain in line with my plan to retire early. This will involve increasing my current 401k contribution from 1% to 3% and increasing my Roth IRA conversion to about $600 per month up from $540. This will just get my 2006 Roth IRA fully funded faster before April 15th. For more details on my retirement, see my previous post.
After that, any leftover from my raise will go straight into reducing my student loan/ring debt of about $13,800. I currently pay about $300 to $350 a month on this loan. It sits on a credit card at about 4.99% interest. The minimum payment due is about $215 a month.
So with my raise, I'm going to start throwing a lot more money at this loan (I hope). I'm currently projecting being able to throw an extra $600 a month at this loan which will get it paid off in a little over a year. My new total payment will be somewhere between $900 and $1,000 per month.
I guess what I'm most excited about is the year 2008......when my loan is paid off and I'll have an extra $1,000 a month to do what I want with.
November 28, 2006
Who Needs Hedge Funds? A Copula-Based Technique for Hedge Fund Replication
3rd week into severance
I'm really enjoying it, though. Both jobs are giving me structure in my day while earning some extra pocket change. But most importantly, they are giving me experience with how retail businesses run. This includes the cash aspect, working with customers, and managing people in a non-office environment. Interesting stuff, actually. I've made it more interesting by adding in my own little challenges of up-selling, selling different perks, and moving stale inventory. So far my managers are enjoying it, and it gives me another challenge.
My S.O. and I found the investment property we have been looking for. We need our investment partners to take a look at it as well, then start the process of fixing it for for resale. We found another one as well that presents more of a challenge. That one will be our second challenge, if it's still around when we're ready for it!
I am also enjoying not having to run anymore! Although I would like to be a little more loyal to my morning group workout. My plan is to go each day for the rest of the week.
These are interesting times! I just hope that I can earn a few more months of salary in this time so that I can "buy" more time away from the office environment! Otherwise, I'm back in the rat race on May 1st. I'm very optimistic that it will happen, but it's good for me to keep my eye on the ball.
Make Money Selling Short


I jumped on the potential band wagon early and started to screen for shorts back in early October and I was wrong. More recently, I placed a few positions and was both right and wrong as the market trend was still moving higher and I knew this but I was conquered by human emotion to make the short trades anyway. Luckily for me, two of the trades show a profit while three losers kicked me quickly for smaller losses.

What do I look for when searching for shorts in what I consider reverse CANSLIM? It’s simple; I read the book by O’Neil, study the charts from the past and look for those same characteristics in stocks trading today.

Many traders believe that the most obvious area to place a short would be near the peak of stock’s trading range but I have found this to be untrue.
Characteristics of Longer Term Trend Shorts
- Most ideal longer term “trend” shorts take four to twelve months after the peak price to setup on the weekly chart with the majority of these shorts triggering between six to nine months.
- Look for stocks that had prior up-trends and support levels that can now act as downward resistance or entry areas.
- Once a stock tops and starts to consolidate, you want it to slice through the 50-d moving average and then the 200-d moving average.
- A crossover between the 50-d m.a. and the 200-d m.a. is ideal and is graphically presented on each chart in this post
- The odds of success increase with each failed attempt for the stock price to recover these major long term moving averages.
- Head and shoulder tops can also serve as ideal setups for potential shorts if they take at least five months to develop.
- A decreasing relative strength line and a negative pattern on the point and figure chart can also confirm that the stock is rolling over and setting up an ideal short.
- Finally, volume should be increasing and the stock should be under distribution as it violates the major moving averages and starts to break former support levels.
No one knows when this market will roll over so study the ideal characteristics now so you are prepared to recognize them when they appear. I have screened about two dozen potential shorts in November on MSW with several of them working while the others have failed. I was early with my analysis but more stocks seem to be building bases like the ones from the bubble burst in late 1999 and early 2000. Compare the three examples from today that I have posted to the four shorts from the past that setup perfectly if you would have recognized them six years ago.



For further reading, see my two part article on shorting and the book by O’Neil – the charts alone are worth the price!
Shorting Stocks – The Basics, Part I of II
Shorting Stocks – The Basics, Part II of II
Piranha
Are You Holding Your Breath? — how investing in real estate fits into a financial plan
You may have noticed that none of my posts discuss “investing” in real estate. If you are waiting for a post on this topic I will politely tell you not to hold your breath. Buying and selling individual real estate properties for rental or “flipping” purposes is one topic I won’t be talking about.Don’t get me wrong. As I will discuss in a later post, I strongly believe that everyone should own the real estate they live in – your house, condo, or trailer if that is what floats your boat. I also believe that a diversified real estate product such as Real Estate Investment Trusts (REITs), are an important part of any investment portfolio. Buying individual properties in an attempt to make money, however, is, in my opinion, an occupation not investing. A whole different animal that requires a whole different skill set. I am not knocking it (ok maybe just a little), it is just something I don’t do. If you are looking for “hot” real estate tips you have come to the wrong place.
I don’t invest in real estate because, frankly, I find it too much like work. Owning individual investment properties requires securing/retaining tenants (dealing with the inevitable vacancies and deadbeats) and maintaining/improving the property (I struggle enough with keeping my own house in order!). If you are going to “invest” in individual real estate properties you need to make sure that you are competent in these two areas – and that you enjoy that line of work.
For those of you that think there is free money to be had in real estate, I suggest you do your homework carefully. You will hear and read many stories about how someone made a fortune in real estate. You don’t hear, however, about the fortunes lost. The last real estate bust caused Donald Trump to declare bankruptcy in 1990. The Donald may have recovered personally but many of his creditors did not. To add further insult to injury, the Trump Hotels & Casino Resorts sought voluntary bankruptcy protection in 2005. Investing in real estate is not for amateurs. You might start doing your homework by reading The Key to Getting Stated in Real Estate Investing (Know Your Risks) by Dr. Steve Sjuggerud http://www.investmentu.com/realestateinvestmentadvice.html#key and “The real estate B.S. artist detection checklist” by John T. Reed. http://www.johntreed.com/BSchecklist.html
[1] http://www.forbes.com/home/realestate/2006/10/10/housing-bubble-metros-life-re-cx_tvr_1011restate.html
Cash Allowance File
Credit Score Tips and Great Housing Bargains

My buddy, Larry Russell, has some good tips on how to Raise Your Credit Score in 45 Days-If everything else could be this easy! They are timely tips and a good reminder for all of those who may be getting ready to do a little home buying. I know, it sounds weird to be talking about buying a new home in this time of worrying about the real estate bubble getting worse...But this is a great time! Larry's specialty is the Parker, Colorado area-about 15 minutes South of Denver. I have been watching this area to see how it would be affected by the real estate foreclosures here in Colorado. Now I know, a friend of mine just closed on his home just outside of Parker, last week. He got a brand new custom home, 5,000 square feet on five acres for just a touch north of $500,000! The home is gorgeous and has a great feel to it.
I'm sure that other bargains like this are going to start popping up all over the country so get your credit house in order, find a good realtor and good shopping!
Steve Mertz
What Housing Bubble?
Keeping Track of Christmas!
My hunch is that it will be close to $1,500 or $2,000, but we shall see!
Merry Christmas everyone!
November 27, 2006
Sharon of Frugal Duchess interviewed on Money Blogger Podcast #40
Sharon Harvey Rosenberg is a columnist for the Miami Herald, and she writes a personal finance blog called the Frugal Duchess. This dual role gives her exposure to 2 different audiences, and of course insight into the difference between blogging and the main stream media. In the interview we talk about vicarious frugality, and the person who inspired her to make smarter spending choices.
Links to Bloggers who contributed questions:
Nina from Queercents: http://www.queercents.com/
Mapgirl: http://www.mapgirl.net/mfc/
A Penny Saved: http://money.thatedeguy.com/
Links to other sites mentioned in the interview:
http://pfblogs.org/
http://www.mightybargainhunter.com/
http://simplicity-in-kansas.blogspot.com/index.html
http://frugalforlife.blogspot.com/
http://www.nolimitsladies.com/
http://www.consumerismcommentary.com/
http://www.mapgirl.net/mfc/
http://allfinancialmatters.com/
http://singlemomandmoney.blogspot.com/
http://www.mightybargainhunter.com/
http://millionaireartist.com/
Black Box Trading: Panacea or Promotion?
Mercer study suggests institutional investors know alpha when they see it.
Canada Student Loans - Part 3 The Bureaucracy
In my experience with the government institutions that administer student loans in Canada, its very obvious that people are are being cost thousands of dollars as a result of this bureaucracy.
Here are two examples that I have personally experienced that likely occur regularily:
My first experience happened during the Christmas break of my third year. During the period between Christmas and new years, I logged into my bank account to check the balance to make sure that my rent would clear in a couple days. To my surprise, my account was about $250 less than expected. At the time $250 was a massive amount of money to go missing. I followed up with my bank and all they could tell me was that it was a "pre-authorized debit". Wonderful, that sure helped. It took going into my home branch before they would tell me that it was my student loan payment that had been taken out. This was extremely odd as I was still in school.
When I contacted the National Student loan center they informed me that I failed to submit the "Federal" portion of the paperwork which documented that I was still in school. After checking, they did confirm they had my provincial portion. Despite having one but not the other, both my provincial and federal loans went into repayment. The real issue here is that the procedure for submitting your full time student documentation is to take your loan documents to a processing center (in my case, the table beside where I got the documents) and they send them off to all the institutions. This would of course mean that either the processing center, or the loan office themselves made the mistake. The frustration here is that despite proving I had submitted the form, all that the loan office was prepared to do was refund the principle. This meant that I would have to repay these dollars later and the interest portion would be lost forever. Furthermore, all the interest that had accrued from April-December would be tacked on to my principle.
The second issue to affect my sister is equally frustrating. She just finished school this September following a year in a post-grad college program and 4 months of unpaid co-op. She was fortunate to find a job within a month and wanted to start repaying her loan. Before she received her first paycheck, she received her loan consolidation paperwork that is typically sent out about 5 months after you graduate. This didn't make sense to her, so she called the national student loan center. She was told that their records indicated that she had finished school in April. She informed them that her program ran from September 2005-September 2006 and lasted 3 semesters. The loan center informed her that since she was already finished school, it was too late to have her status changed. This would result in about $1,000 in interest being tacked onto her loan before she even had a chance to repay. Could somebody please explain how this could have been avoided? It couldn't. Our student loan system is a joke and needs to be fixed.
I would have to suggest that Canada adopt a US style system where students would take their loans to a bank to have them consolidated. That way, the student could work with the bank over any mistakes as well as negotiate better rates. Even better, just get rid of the "there is nothing we can do" mentality that exists with this bureaucracy.
I Hire People to Do That! — things you should know if you plan to use a financial advisor

Money frees you from doing things you dislike. Since I dislike doing nearly everything, money is handy.
Groucho Marx (1890 - 1977)
Perhaps the most direct question you should ask when engaging an advisor is “Why are they doing it? If they were really that good at managing money, wouldn’t they be too busy managing their own? I am always amused when I listen to analysts recommend stocks on CNBC and then proudly state that they don’t own any. Why would you want to take someone’s recommendation that has no financial interest in seeing how it turns out? Sure there are conflict of interest issues that need to be sorted out but I definitely subscribe to the “put your money where you mouth is” school of thought.
So, once you get past that hurdle, there are other questions that you should ask. These questions fall into four general categories:
- Compensation – how much do they charge, what way do they charge (hourly, flat fee, commission or combination) and who else pays them (beware of advisors that collect commissions or product placement fees)
- Qualifications – what makes them a good financial advisor? What licenses and professional designations do they have? What is their education and work history? Have they ever had complaints of disciplinary action taken against them?
- Products and Services – What exactly are they going to do for you? What services do they offer? What information will you need to provide? Do they offer a full range of investment vehicles or only those from particular companies?
- Performance – Many questionnaires leave this off but I think it is important. After all, that is the bottom line of why you are hiring them. I never bought into the logic that advisors could explain away bad results by bad markets. I want to see a proven history with accounts similar to mine. Further, the performance results should be in compliance with the CFA Institute’s Global Investment Performance Standards (GIPs). These standards are best practices for institutional investors. I see no reason why investment managers for the little guys can’t comply as well. The CFA Institute has a good 2 page article on evaluating investment portfolio performance that I would encourage you to read. http://www.cfainstitute.org/aboutus/investors/pdf/How_to_Evaluate.pdf
There are several questionnaires on the internet but I am not including links to any because, frankly, I didn’t find them to be that good. Perhaps in my free time I will put one together ;-). In the meantime I would use the list above. In addition, I would also ask to see the advisor’s ADV Form (or the state securities agency equivalent). This is an annual filing that is required by every registered advisor and provides useful information regarding their operations. You can read more about this form at this link. http://financial-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com/Form+ADV
Another simple rule to follow. Watch for hidden clues and body language. If the advisor is uncomfortable answering these questions or providing you with backup documentation, run don’t walk to the nearest exit!!!
Just Took My Law Exam
Long overworded question
A. Possible trick answer.
B. An even better possible trick answer.
C. An even better possible trick answer.
D. Non of the above.
or
Really hard to understand question with lots of unnecessarily difficult to understand long words
True
False
I did alright on the multiple choice and I hope the essay questions bring my grade up.
November 26, 2006
Synthetic Funds and the Mongolian Barbeque
What’s in a Name? — distinguishing amongst professional financial designations
Since I have started this blog, I have been surfing the investment sites on the internet. It makes me wonder whether the world really needs another blogging investment expert. We will find out won’t we? If anyone out there in cyberspace is finding my comments useful, I would appreciate hearing from you. I won’t promise to stop if I don’t hear from you, it just would be nice to know someone is listening ;-).So who is worthy of your time? Call me biased but I do think that is important for financial writers/advisors to have some type of professional designation. Why else would I have worked so hard to get my CPA and CFA? I am sure that there are investment experts out there with no professional designations who are very good. The legendary investor, Warren Buffett comes to mind. Mr. Buffett has no letters after his name – just a whole lot of zeros! He does however have a Masters from Columbia University and was the protégé of the Benjamin Graham, the father of value investing. My point is that acquiring a professional investment designation shows a certain level of competency and dedication to the subject. If your advisor doesn’t have a designation, you need to do further research to make sure that he/she exhibits Buffett-like qualities.
OK. We’ve established the importance of professional designations now comes the hard part. Which one? The International Association of Registered Financial Consultants (IARFC) reports that as of January 2005 there are 89 designations, certifications and degrees and 87 financial services associations and professional institutions. If you want to torture yourself, you can read a little of each on IARFC’s web site. http://www.iarfc.org/content_sub.asp?n=64
In my, albeit bias opinion, there are three that merit special attention – CFA, CFP and CPA for generalist investment knowledge. I have shown the description from the IARFC’s web site for these designations below.
- CFA Chartered Financial Analyst. Has completed three comprehensive exams on ethics and professional conduct, securities and portfolio management and investment valuation offered by the CFA Institute (formerly Association for Investment Management and Research - AIMR). Candidates must also meet reference, ethics and work experience requirements. There are over 30,000 CFA charter holders worldwide.
- CFP Certified Financial Planner™. In the U.S. a Certified Financial Planner professional who successfully completes the CFP Board of Standards comprehensive examinations and meets ongoing certification requirements. CFP is an internationally recognized designation held by over 55,000 people in 13 countries, although there are some differences in the accreditation process outside of the U.S..
- CPA Certified Public Accountant. Has met educational qualifications, such as a bachelors or masters degree in accounting, passed four state-certifying examinations and met experience qualifications in the area of public accounting. CPAs are licensed individually by state and can hold licenses for more than one state at a time. An approximate number of CPAs is 600,000 with 55% of them being AICPA members.
- CPA/PFS Certified Public Accountant - Personal Financial Specialist. A designation awarded by the AICPA to accountants who have completed additional study and examination requirements in personal financial planning.
A financial advisor that possesses one of these designations should have some level of knowledge in financial matters -- but -- a designation (or two) is not a guarantee of expertise. Just as I shudder to think about some of my college classmates that are now surgeons, there are many CPA, CFAs and the like that are not worth a lick. You still need to determine each individual’s competency based on their character and performance. In my next post, I will discuss the types of questions that you should be asking your advisor to assess these traits.
Investing Basics
I have been searching around the internet for some good articles on investment basics. Imagine my surprise when I came across an article from the SEC (yes, the government agency) that was pretty good. In fact, it covers all the key points in just a few pages in plain easy to read words. Today is a good day as I see that some of my tax dollars are going to good use!I would encourage anyone interested in investing to start with this article. http://www.sec.gov/investor/pubs/assetallocation.htm. My cliff notes version and comments from the peanut gallery are below:
Key Factors – the two key factors to consider when investing are what is referred to as the investment time horizon and the investors risk tolerance.
- Time Horizon – how long you plan to invest. In general a longer time horizon means an investor can have a riskier more volatile investment portfolio.
- Risk Tolerance –the investors ability and willingness to take losses on his portfolio is an important factor that should be identified prior to investing. Risk and reward are inextricably entwined. If you want higher returns, you need to recognize that you will need to accept higher risks (read losses)
Investment Choices – there are three broad classes of assets that are typically considered part of an investment portfolio – stocks, bonds, and cash. In addition there are other category specific investments (such as real estate) that might also be included in a portfolio. In my opinion these other categories should only be invested in after the investor has meaningful investments in the three major classes. I know many of you are wondering why I think this way because real estate is (or was) all the rage these last several years. I will write another post later on the appropriate place for real estate in your portfolio.
- Stocks – highest returns and highest risk. There are subclasses within the stock category, with varying degrees of risk. The broadest of these subclasses are U.S. large cap, U.S. mid cap, U.S small cap and foreign stocks.
- Bonds – bonds are generally less volatile than stocks and thus offer lower returns. Bonds are highly influenced by interest rates so their value will vary with movements in the rates (which is why bond traders pay close attention to the Fed). Subclasses of bonds include government bonds (lowest risk), corporate bonds (with risk related to the issuers credit rating) and foreign bonds (which have the added risk of foreign currency)
- Cash – the safest of the asset class but also the lowest returns. Cash portfolios are not likely to outperform inflation over long periods of time.
- Other – this class includes (real estate, precious metals and other commodities, and private equity. In my opinion, these asset classes should not represent a significant portion of a beginning investors portfolio (except of course the real estate that you plan to live in)
The initial decision that an investor needs to make is determining which asset classes to invest in. This is called “Asset Allocation” and will be determined largely based on the investors time horizon and risk tolerance. The SEC sites has a link to an asset allocation calculator offered by the Iowa Public Employees Retirement System. http://www.ipers.org/sub/calcs/AssetAllocator.html Imagine that, another good product from a government institution. Try it. I think you will find it useful.
The SEC article introduces two other important investment concepts – diversification (which I talked about in yesterday’s post) and rebalancing (maintaining the appropriate asset allocation).
Welcome
More to come soon!
$100,000 Net Worth! - Our Retirement!
I have posted in detail how we want to retire by age 45, or soon thereafter. I did a follow up post here also.
The two biggest wildcards in our dream to retire early are home ownership and starting a family. As those events happen, we will have to revise our plan, but hopefully it is still probable.
So here are some details about our current retirement accounts:
My 401k - My 401k has done well this year. Through September 30, it was lagging, but now year to date, I'm up over 12%. My goal was 10%, so hopefully it holds up through the end of the year. I only contribute 1% of my salary as my company doesn't match and we are focusing on Roth IRA's and my fiance's 401k. I just contribute 1% to keep the payroll deduction going. We'll have a big change coming next year due to marriage and exceeding the Roth IRA income limits. So we'll probably end up increasing my percentage substantially.
Fiance 401k - Where almost 50% of all our retirement money is sitting. Her company matches 50% of her first 6% of contribution, so we contribute 6% here to take advantage of the free money. We reallocated her account back in August to hopefully kick up the performance. So far things are going well. Since we will be Roth IRA ineligible next year, we will switch over to funding 401k's more next year, so we'll bump her percentage of contribution up.
Traditional IRA - This account comes from my fiance from way back. It is help in TD Ameritrade and we have traded stocks in it this year without much success. However, the gains made in our Roth IRA's have just about made up for it.
Fiance Roth IRA - As of this week, we have fully funded my fiance's Roth IRA for the year up to the $4,000 limit. I snuck in about $500 last April that I counted as a 2005 contribution. We hold this account in TD Ameritrade also. We won't be able to contribute here next year, so the balance will only change based on performance of investments.
My Roth IRA - I just opened this account this week. Since my fiance's IRA is now funded, we will start working on mine. We have until April 2007 to fund this up to $4,000 and we should hit it by March. It is also at TD Ameritrade.
My Profit Sharing - The least of my worries is here. I can't do much about this. Basically every year, my work contributes 3% of my salary to this and it is invested. I can't pick investments. The only thing I can do is try to make my work more profitable I guess? However, it counts as retirement money because I can't touch it until age 59.5.
And that sums up our retirement and my posting about achieving $100,000 of net worth.
I'll be back to normal posting this week!
Get screwed by Financial product companies [Digg]
New Address!
November 25, 2006
Chomping at the bit? — how to start an investment portfolio
Most of my posts so far have been about debt. This post is for those of you out there that are thinking “enough already, I want to get on to investing.” We will be talking a lot about investments in later posts. The main issue with starting with investments is that you need money to invest (at least $3,000 in most cases). It is also hard to start with investing because there is a lot to learn in order to invest successfully. For those of you chomping at the bit I want to show you how to get started. I want to provide you with a simple, low risk (note that this does not mean NO risk) method for investing small amounts. Putting myself in your shoes, I am seeing that this may sound easier than it is. I have just spent several hours researching this topic on the internet. There is a ton of information on investing for beginners but none of it is presented in a concise manner. So, here is my attempt. - First, take advantage of any tax deferred plans offered by your employer – if your employer has any saving plan you should first invest in this. Not only are taxes deferred on many of these plans, but many employers match contributions. This match almost guarantees that you will earn more on these investments that you earn elsewhere. The issue is that there are restrictions as to when withdrawals can be taken from these plans so you need to know the rules. While I started investing in these plans, I quickly moved to other investments because I knew that I wanted more access to my funds. To get the best of both worlds, you will likely need to invest more – this requires strong discipline in delayed gratification which you may or may not aspire to. As a student, this may not be an issue for you so we can move on.
- Invest in an index rather than individual stocks – study upon study shows how very few investors – professional or otherwise – are able to outperform the market. Standard & Poors reports that “actively managed mutual funds underperformed their relative S&P benchmark in 8 of 11 general domestic equity styles during the first half of 2006.”[1] When you start out, you have the added disadvantage of having limited funds which would result in inappropriate concentration. While stock pros like Warren Buffett have the appropriate skills to make concentrated bets, diversification is an important tool for the beginning investor. Don’t worry. Once you have accumulated some knowledge and funds, we will move on to investing in individual stocks. To start, however, stick to the index funds.
- Dollar cost average – don’t you hate it when you buy something and then find it on sale a week or two later? Dollar cost averaging means that you make systematic investments at over time rather than all at once. This reduces risk and helps to establish a good habit of saving. Just as the pinch of tax payments are lessened as they are taken from your check before you see it, making an automatic investment on pay day helps you to think of this money as unavailable.
- Invest only those funds that intend to keep invested for at least five years – we are talking about investing not gambling (that will be a subject of another post). Investing in a diversified portfolio over an extended period of time should result in a fairly predictable return. Most studies will show you that you can expect to earn 8% to 12% on large cap U.S. stocks over a 5 to 10 year period. If you want more information on historical returns, I suggest that you read an interesting article from TAM Asset Management, Inc.[2] This return is only expected over long periods of time. There are years that you could lose up to 20% of your investment. Since, no one can predict up and down years, it is important to keep this money invested for the long term.
- Minimize expenses – the nasty hidden secret is that many investor returns are eaten up by expenses. Keeping expenses to a minimum helps avoid that. This is also a topic for another post. For now, I will just tell you that, in my opinion, you should never invest in a fund where expenses are greater than 1%.
- Restrict initial investment to large cap U.S. securities that is a blend of the value and growth styles – Investing in large cap securities should result in performance that is consistent with the U.S. economy. While other asset classes are sexier and could result in higher returns, they also involve more risk. To start, it is better to investment in the broad market.
- Make sure that you keep some funds in cash or other low risk investments – investing in stocks involve risk and it is important that you plan on keeping these investments for a long period of time. Accordingly, it is important that you only invest funds that you will not need for the short term. You need to think about you day-to-day expenses as well as maintaining a “rainy day” fund.
- Know what you are investing in – It is important to know what you are investing in. While I am attempting to provide you some useful information, it will be important for you to do your own homework.
Based on these pointers, I found a few funds that you might want to look at. If you are interested in investing in one of these funds, I would suggest that you go to their web site for further information.
| # of | Price as of | Expense | 5 Yr Total | Minimum | Investment | ||||
| Mutal Fund Name | Ticker | Style | Stocks | 11/24/06 | Yield | Ratio1 | Return | Initial | Subsequent |
Vanguard 500 Index | VFINX | Large/Blend | 513 | $129.38 | 1.65% | 0.34% | 7.13% | $3,000 | $100 |
| T. Rowe Price Equity Market Index | POMIX | Large/Blend | 1,849 | $15.35 | 1.20% | 0.80% | 8.53% | $2,500 | $100 |
| Schwab Inv 1000 Index | SNXFX | Large/Blend | 990 | $41.25 | 1.13% | 0.72% | 7.70% | $2,500 | $500 |
1 Expense and Management Fee
Source: Standard & Poors Mutual Fund Reports
Data quoted represents past performance. Past performance is not an indication of future results and investment returns and prices for exchange-traded funds will fluctuate. Your investment may be worth more or less than your original cost at redemption. Current performance may be lower or higher than the performance data quoted. Before investing you should consider the appropriateness of this investment based on your individual circumstances. You should also obtain updated information regarding this investment from sites such as http://finance.yahoo.com or https://us.etrade.com and obtain and read a copy of the investment's prospectus.
There may be some of you out there that don’t want to wait until you have $2,500 to $3,000 to invest. While I think it is generally better to wait, I don’t want to discourage anyone. My opinion is that we learn the most when we have a vested interest. Another way to invest is to invest using ETFs or Exchange Traded Funds. These funds trade like stock and you can buy them through an online broker. Kiplinger Personal Finance’s latest ranking of online brokers[3] named the following as the top brokers for accounts of $50,000 or less:
Kiplinger Ranking of Best Brokers for $50,000 (and less) accounts1. OptionsXpress
2. Muriel Siebert
3. Wells Fargo
4. Firsttrade
5. Fidelity
6. Vanguard
7. TradeKing
8. Schwab
9. E*trade
10. Scottrade
I have listed a few ETFs in the chart below that should be appropriate to start your investment portfolio. While these funds provide essentially the same performance as the index funds and expenses are typically lower, the issue is that you are charged a commission every time you buy an ETF. Even with low cost brokers, commissions are likely to be between $10 and $20 a trade. This adds considerably to your cost. The upside is that you can start you investment with much less than $2,500. You can buy at little of one share but you must remember the commission cost.
| # of | Price as of | Expense | 5 Yr Trailing | ||||
| ETF Name | Ticker | Style | Stocks | 11/24/2006 | Yield | Ratio | Returns |
| iShares Dow Jones US Total Market Index | IYY | Large/Blend | 1,629 | $ 68.33 | 1.52% | 0.20% | 6.75% |
| iShares Russell 3000 Index | IWV | Large/Blend | 2,959 | $ 81.39 | 1.50% | 0.20% | 6.95% |
| iShares S&P 100 Index | OEF | Large/Blend | 100 | $ 65.38 | 1.55% | 0.20% | 3.69% |
| SPDRs | SPY | Large/Blend | 500 | $ 140.35 | 1.69% | 0.10% | 5.71% |
| Vanguard Total Stock Market | VTI | Large/Blend | 3,764 | $ 139.31 | 1.66% | 0.07% | 7.53% |
[1] http://www2.standardandpoors.com/spf/pdf/index/071906_SPIVA_pr.pdf
[2] http://www.tamasset.com/pdf/assetclass/may06ac2.pdf
[3] http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/Investing/Extra/TheBestOnlineBrokers.aspx
Carnival of Investing #49
Carnival of Investing
November 24, 2006
The Myth of Hedge Fund Under-Regulation
Reverse Psychology
However, it seems to me that the reverse happens when you are cutting a price. Dell is offering me a deal in which a $799 laptop is cut down to $719. That didn't seem like much of a deal. But I think that if they had cut it from $800 to $719 it would have seemed a bit sweeter. Something about all those 9's obscures the discount.
Top 10 Financial Blogs

Trader Mike
Trader Mike trading Diary
The Kirk Report
One pro's view of the stock market
Brett Steenbarger Weblog
In this weblog, I follow research and trading ideas designed to catch short-term moves in the S&P futures market.
Howard Lindzon
TRENDS - Find them, ride them and get off! Stocks, venture and civilization.
Taz Trader Blog
The Swing Trading Guide
BillCara.com
Capital Markets & Social Equity
TraderFeed
Exploiting the edge from historical market patterns
Tale of the Tape
This site is all about moolah, dinero, bread, cheese, cheddar, coin, loot, and bounty. In other words --- MONEY!!!
NYSE Scalper’s Tale
Currently scalp NYSE stocks (hold stocks anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes) and do not hold positions overnight.
Ticker Sense
Ticker Sense is a blog about everything financial by Birinyi Associates!
Ok, I can’t limit this to just ten; honorable mentions that I always visit each week (multiple times):
Yaser Anwar
Analyzing Investment Ideas that would Outperform the Market. My approach is to dissect Macro Economic Trends, Market Psychology alongside Fundamental & Technical Analysis that shape underlying values of investments from time to time.
Self Investors
Empowering the Self Investor - Growth Stock & Market analysis
Trader-X
Views from a distorted mind. Charts and more charts. Plus sporadic thoughts on the stock market, trading, politics, entertainment, sports, and everything else.
Uglychart
Ugly is doing what many traders would love to do - trade for a living. He trades with a proprietary trading firm (or “prop firm” for short). A prop firm gives you several times your money to trade and then you keep part of the profits.
StockTicker
Stocktickr is free "social investing" site and it's the easiest way to store a watchlist on the web.
Many more excellent blogs live on my blogroll, so take a look as a few of these may move into my top 10 in the future!
Piranha
The Holiday Home Buying Guide
The period between Thanksgiving and New Year’s is typically the slowest time of year for home sales and this year looks to be the same. While most consumers are looking to the great deals at stores, for those that are also looking to buy a houses, they don’t see that this is also the best time of year to get a good buy on a home too!
This time of year, most sellers have been on the market for several months (or much longer!) and are growing weary from showings (or lack of them) and are frustrated with the slower tempo of the market. This time of year weekly Pending Sales are about half of what they are in March, April and May. As a buyer, this gives you a great opportunity to be a hero to a seller by bringing them an offer that would end their struggle to sell their home before the New Year. The reward for your heroism is likely to be a lower sales price than you would have received earlier this year or what you may receive next year.
While not all sellers are motivated enough to significantly drop their price, there are good bargains in this market as many of the houses for sale are already priced well. Very recently I was in a negotiation with a buyer on his first home. We looked at everything in his price range and this home was far superior to the rest. We made an offer about $10,000 under its $220,000 asking price but ended up settling on the seller’s counter of $3500 under asking. We both looked at each other and said “you know, this house is priced right and in excellent condition… it’s worth every penny of $220,000.” Had the house been greatly overpriced, more aggressive negotiations would have been needed. My buyer is thrilled with the outcome and closes in January.
If you’ve been sitting on the fence about buying or been thinking that you’ll wait to January to get serious, you may be missing out on the best values in the market!
Just DON”T do it! — how to use credit cards properly
In celebration of the busiest shopping day of the year, I thought we might talk a bit about credit cards. I hope I am not the first to break it to you but credit cards are NOT free money! Here are some “fun” facts about college students and credit cards from a Nellie Mae report:
- 76% of undergraduates in 2004 began the school year with credit cards; 56% reported obtaining their first card at the age of 18.
- The average outstanding balance on undergraduate credit cards was $2,169.
- 21% report paying off all cards each month; 44% say they make more than the minimum payment but generally carry forward a balance; 11% say they make less than the minimum required payment each month. [1]
While I cringe at the average balance and the high percentage of students that don’t pay off their card each month, I need to remind myself that reality is probably even worse than this. These statistics are just for students applying for student loans. The statistics on the general population would probably show higher balances and poorer repayment patterns.
Carrying a balance on a credit card is one of the easiest ways to ensure that you never achieve financial independence. Paying only the minimum balance or less will mean that you will always be paying the highest rates. Funny how no one told you this as all those offers for credit cards were rolling in. While credit cards can be a wonderful thing, the sad fact is that too many young adults have to learn a painful lesson before they properly manage their credit cards. Take heart, however. By absorbing this lesson early in your credit life, you will be way ahead in the game. Many Americans never learn this lesson and that is why they continue to work for their money rather than have their money work for them.
In a later post, I will discuss how you can work yourself out of high credit card debt. The lesson for today is just “stop digging the hole any deeper.” If you can’t pay off the balance on your card, don’t use it again until the balance is paid in full. You really don’t have to do any fancy budgeting. Sure this may mean that you have to wait to buy stuff but delayed gratification isn’t all bad. As shown in the famous marshmallow test, the ability to wait has a positive impact on where you end up in life. http://ezinearticles.com/?Delayed-Gratification-and-Money-(or,-Marshmallows-and-Your-Financial-Health)&id=237818 As Morgan James notes “When you go to spend your money, think about the Stanford Marshmallow Test. Then think about how many marshmallows you could buy if you delayed your gratification.”
In my opinion credit cards are not about buying things before their time. Card credits should be paid off in full each month. So why use them you ask? The primary benefits of credit cards are that they:
- Help you establish credit.
- Allow you to take advantage of specials (e.g., airline miles, cash-back).
- May provide insurance/protection for your purchases.
- Provide a tracking of your purchases.
[1] http://www.nelliemae.org/library/research_12.html
November 23, 2006
Consultants scramble for the exits
Got Credit? — tips for establishing good credit

- Helps you to get the best possible terms when you do borrow.
- Teaches you important money management skills.
- Is an important character reference. Rightly or wrongly, employers, landlords and others will look at your credit as a measure of how responsible you are.
Liz Pulliam Weston has a good article on MSN Money that list 9 ways to build a killer credit score[1]. She notes that “if you’re just starting out, you have an once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to build a credit history the right way.” While I encourage you to read the entire article, I will summarize the 9 points below:
- Check your credit report – while you may not think you have a credit report, it is possible that your information has been confused with someone else or that you have been the victim of identity theft. It also serves as a reference point and helps you understand the rules of the game.
- Establish checking and savings accounts – these should be established as early as possible as lenders see them as signs of stability.
- Understand the basics of credit scoring – the two most important factors used in credit scoring are on-time bill payment and keeping well within your available credit limits (use only 30% of your available credit). Also, pay off the entire balance. Carrying a balance IS NOT a key factor in building your credit score.
- Piggyback on someone else’s good credit – this is a good strategy in certain circumstances especially when you are finding it hard to get credit yourself. Personally, I would only use this on a limited basis, if at all. You need to make sure that whoever you are piggybacking really does have good credit and that the issuer reports the history on authorized users to the credit agencies.
- Apply for credit while you’re a college student – I probably don’t need to tell you how anxious lenders are to give you a credit card while you are still in school. Take advantage of this but remember to pay off the balance each month. When you don’t carry a balance, it really doesn’t matter what interest rate applies to the card.
- Apply for a secured credit card – this is another last resort method to build credit when you can’t get credit any other way. Secured credit cards is basically using your own money as you are required to deposit money with the lender and your limit is usually this deposit. If you take this method, you need to make sure that the fees are low and that your credit history will be reported to the credit bureaus.
- Get a finance company card – gas companies and department stores are usually easy to qualify for. You should apply for more than a few of these and again you need to make sure that you pay off the balance each month.
- Get an installment loan – once you have a few years of credit card management under your belt, you should obtain auto loans, personal loans and mortgages. Credit scores are based on a mix of credit so it is important to develop a history on these credit types along with credit cards.
- Use revolving accounts lightly but regularly – to maintain your credit score, you should have some activity in your account at least every six months.
[1] http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/CollegeAndFamily/MoneyInYour20s/9waysToBuildAKillerCreditScore.aspx?page=1
